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HMS Maori – a dive in the heart of Malta

By Paul Adams

The guys and gals from Scuba Works Malta suggested we go and dive on the HMS Maori, or what’s left of her. The front section lays in about 18m of water in St Elmos Bay, Valletta. Debbie and I were defiantly up for that! We had all heard there were Seahorses close to the wreck, and wanted to see if we could find these illusive and legendry creatures.

Seven divers turned up on Saturday morning, Two decided to go off in search of ‘treasure’ in the shallow reef, there are lots of old coins and bits of interesting junk which has been tossed in or dropped over the years. Poking about and disturbing the sand also attracts a lot of critters who turn up for lunch prepared by the divers.

That left the five of us Debbie, Annette ( who was trying her new dry suit for the first time) Dragan Dave and me, to go off in search of Seahorses and HMS Maori. We were not disappointed; within a few minutes a couple of Seahorses were spotted and photographed. They were brave little critters, and held station while we all crowded round them. We left them clinging to their bits of weed and set off for the wreck. There is a wealth of life there, fascinating nudibranchs and corals, a stonefish which was very well disguised as a part of the former destroyer.

The structure is decaying as would be expected after 60+ years underwater, there are large holes which allow some stunning swim-throughs. The light as it streams through to the inside of the structure gives a beautiful effect which is in total contrast to its original formidable intent.

We left the wreck and made our way back via the sandy seabed, disturbing some turbot on the way. A last look at the Seahorses, then back towards the rubble reef.

We were spotted by a Cuttlefish which came right up to us and peered into our masks and Debbies camera, reaching out with its tentacles to investigate us. A very strange experience which made us acutely aware that we are very privileged to be able to visit such a different world, and we are as much a curiosity to the creatures down here as they are to us.

As we slowly worked our way back to shore Dragan found a Moray eel and a Flying Gurnard which spread its wings and gently glided away.

What a splendid way to spend a Saturday morning.

Pictures by Debbie Addams

Tags: Best wrecks for beginners, Dive in Malta, diving in Valletta, HMS Maori, Scuba Malta, Seahorse, War Wrecks in Malta, Wreck Diving in Malta